Bornholm: Denmark's Sunshine Island

Bornholm sits alone in the Baltic Sea, closer to Sweden, Poland and Germany than to the rest of Denmark, and it carries a reputation among Danes as solskinsøen (the sunshine island) for its long hours of light and its slower, sun-warmed pace. On one compact island you get the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe, four medieval round churches, smokehouses with their distinctive square chimneys, and some of the finest white-sand beaches in the country. This guide covers how to reach it, what to actually see, how long to stay and how to get around once you arrive.

Why Bornholm feels different from mainland Denmark

Most of Denmark is flat farmland and gentle coastline. Bornholm is granite. The island is geologically older and rockier than the rest of the country, which is why its north coast has dramatic cliffs rather than dunes, and why the interior holds forests and small lakes instead of open fields. That landscape shaped a distinct culture: defensive round churches built when the Baltic was a dangerous place, a herring-smoking tradition that became central to the local table, and in recent decades a craft scene of glassblowers, ceramicists and food producers concentrated in the eastern fishing towns.

It is also genuinely remote by Danish standards. You cannot drive there from Copenhagen without crossing into Sweden, and the sense of having travelled somewhere apart is part of why Danes prize it. For an expat based in Copenhagen, it is the closest thing to a proper island getaway without leaving Denmark.

Getting to Bornholm

There is no bridge or tunnel, so every trip involves either a ferry or a short flight. According to VisitBornholm, these are your realistic options.

Ferry via Ystad, Sweden

This is the most common route. You travel from Copenhagen across the Øresund Bridge into Sweden, usually by train or bus, to the port town of Ystad, then board the Bornholmslinjen catamaran to Rønne, Bornholm's main town and ferry port. The fast crossing takes about 80 minutes; in rough weather a conventional ferry may run instead and take longer. Combined tickets that bundle the Swedish leg with the ferry are sold through the official channels, which simplifies the cross-border hop. VisitDenmark notes that high season sees a dense schedule of daily Ystad–Rønne departures, dropping to a handful per day off-season.

Ferry from Køge (Denmark)

If you would rather not cross into Sweden at all, Bornholmslinjen also sails from Køge, just south of Copenhagen, directly to Rønne. It is a much longer crossing of roughly 5.5 hours, so it works best as an overnight-style passage or for travellers bringing a car who want to stay inside Denmark the whole way.

Flying from Copenhagen

The quickest option is to fly. The airline DAT operates the short hop from Copenhagen Airport (CPH) to Rønne Airport (RNN) in roughly 35 minutes, with several departures on a typical day. Schedules thin out in winter, so confirm flights before relying on them off-season.

From Germany

There is also a ferry from Sassnitz on the German island of Rügen to Rønne, taking around 3 hours 20 minutes, which is useful if you are approaching from the south rather than from Copenhagen.

For every route, schedules and fares change seasonally, so check the official VisitBornholm and Bornholmslinjen sites for current times and prices before you book.

Getting around once you arrive

You do not need a car. The island's BAT regional bus network connects Rønne with Gudhjem, Svaneke, Allinge, Nexø, Aakirkeby and the main sights, and runs more frequently in summer. Buses are the simplest way to reach Hammershus or Dueodde without driving.

That said, Bornholm is one of the best cycling destinations in Denmark. Book Bornholm describes a marked cycling network said to exceed 230 kilometres, much of it on former railway lines and quiet lanes. The terrain rolls rather than climbs, with the steepest sections around the northern cliffs near Helligdomsklipperne. Family-friendly routes thread through Svaneke and Gudhjem, and the classic multi-day loop links Allinge-Sandvig, Gudhjem or Svaneke, Nexø and Rønne. E-bike and bike rental are widely available, but reserve ahead in peak summer.

Hammershus and the round churches

Two things define Bornholm's history, and both are easy to visit.

Hammershus, on the north-west coast, is a hilltop castle ruin nearly a thousand years old, perched on a rocky cliff about 74 metres above the sea. VisitDenmark describes it as the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe, and the site is free to walk. A modern visitor centre below the ruin explains its history; the views over the Baltic alone justify the trip.

The round churches (rundkirker) are Bornholm's signature buildings. Denmark has seven, and four stand here, in the villages of Østerlars, Olsker, Nyker and Nylars. They are whitewashed, fortress-like and centuries old, built so the lower level served as a chapel, the middle as storage, and the upper as a lookout and place of refuge during Baltic raids. Østerlars is the largest and most striking, and the most worthwhile if you only visit one. They remain working churches, so be respectful of services and check opening hours, which vary by season.

The smokehouses and Bornholm food culture

Few Danish foods are as tied to a place as Bornholm's smoked herring. The island's old herring smokehouses (røgerier), with their tall square chimneys, smoke fish over alder wood in a tradition that VisitDenmark links to towns such as Hasle on the west coast and Nexø in the south-east. Several smokehouses now double as casual restaurants and shops where you can eat the day's catch.

The dish to know is Sol over Gudhjem — literally "sun over Gudhjem" — a plate of smoked herring topped with a raw egg yolk, radishes, chives and onions, named for the town of Gudhjem. Beyond herring, Bornholm has built a serious food reputation: a local vineyard, craft producers, and the celebrated Kadeau restaurant near Dueodde, which holds Michelin recognition. You do not need a fine-dining budget to eat well here, though; the smokehouses and harbour kiosks are where most visitors find the island's flavour. Prices change, so check menus locally.

The east-coast towns: Gudhjem, Svaneke and beyond

Bornholm's character concentrates in its small eastern fishing towns, and wandering them is half the pleasure of a visit.

Gudhjem tumbles down a steep slope to a tiny harbour and is one of the island's prettiest spots, with smokehouses, a working harbour and boat connections in summer to the islet of Christiansø. Svaneke, further south, is a well-preserved town of yellow lime-washed houses, recognised for its historic character, and it is a hub for craft workshops and the organic Svaneke Bryghus brewery. Smaller villages such as Allinge and Sandvig in the north, near Hammershus, and Nexø and Årsdale in the south-east, each reward an unhurried stroll. Rønne, where most ferries and flights arrive, is the largest town and a practical base, with shops, restaurants and good onward bus links.

Beaches and nature

The south coast holds Bornholm's best-known beach, Dueodde, where VisitDenmark notes the sand is exceptionally fine and pale and the shallow water stays clear, backed by dunes and pine. The Dueodde lighthouse nearby is among the tallest in Denmark. Other gentle swimming beaches dot the south and east, while the north coast is rockier and more dramatic.

Inland, Almindingen is one of Denmark's largest forests and shelters the small lake Opal Lake (Opalsøen) in a flooded former quarry. Along the northern shore, the Helligdomsklipperne (Sanctuary Cliffs) drop straight into the sea and are laced with walking paths, with sea caves and granite rock formations along the coast. For families, NaturBornholm in Aakirkeby is an experience centre that explains the island's unusual geology and wildlife. None of these require special equipment — good shoes and a willingness to walk are enough.

A day trip to Christiansø

Off Bornholm's north-east tip lie the Ertholmene islands, the easternmost point of Denmark, of which the inhabited Christiansø is the draw. It is a tiny former naval fortress with thick walls, a handful of permanent residents and no cars, reachable by passenger boat in summer from Gudhjem and other harbours. A few hours wandering its ramparts and car-free lanes make an atmospheric half-day excursion if the weather is settled. Boat schedules are seasonal and weather-dependent, so confirm sailings before planning around them.

How long to stay

A long weekend of two to three days is the sweet spot for a first visit: enough for Rønne, Hammershus, one or two east-coast towns and a beach afternoon. Stretch to four days if you want to cycle a coastal stretch, see the round churches and add Christiansø without rushing. Cyclists and anyone wanting real beach time should plan a week. Because so much depends on ferry and flight timetables, build your arrival and departure around the transport schedule first, then fill the days in between.

Where to stay

Most visitors base themselves in or near one of a few areas. Rønne is the most convenient for transport, with the broadest choice of accommodation and easy onward buses — a sensible pick for a short trip or a first visit. Gudhjem and Svaneke on the east coast put you among the prettiest towns and the smokehouses, ideal if atmosphere and walkability matter more than transport links. Allinge-Sandvig in the north suits anyone drawn to Hammershus and the cliffs, while the Dueodde and Nexø area in the south is the choice for beach-focused stays. Summer is busy and the island is small, so book well ahead; you can compare available stays for your dates on Booking.com.

Plan your trip — good to know

• Book transport first. Ferries and flights set the rhythm of any Bornholm trip; reserve them, and any bike or car rental, before peak summer dates fill up.
• Pack for the Baltic. Even in summer, sea breezes and cliff-top weather can turn cool and changeable, so bring layers and a windproof jacket alongside swimwear.
• A car is optional. Buses and bikes cover the island well; only rent a car if you want to reach remote corners quickly or are travelling with young children.
• Check seasonal hours. Smokehouses, museums, the round churches and boat trips to Christiansø all run reduced or no service outside summer — verify on official sites before you go.
• Sort travel insurance. If you are visiting Denmark on a non-EU passport or travelling without local health coverage, arrange travel insurance such as SafetyWing before the trip; an island in the Baltic is not where you want a coverage gap.

Bornholm rewards travellers who slow down. Give it a few unhurried days, eat the smoked herring, walk the cliffs and let the island set the pace — that, more than any single sight, is what keeps Danes coming back every summer.